Wednesday, August 5, 2009

La Alpujarra - The world's oldest hippy community

Roadside directions to Orgiva. Photograph by Tim IrvingRoadside directions to Orgiva

I started my day wondering what to write on my blog, then I went to Orgiva and it became obvious.

Just south of Granada, Spain, and little to the left is an area called the Alpujarras. Bordered on 3 sides by the Sierra De Lugar to the south, the Sierra La Contraviesa to the west, and if that isn't enough mountains, to the north of the Alpujarras is the daddy of them all, the Sierra Nevada. Do you get the picture? It's a long valley surrounded by high mountains. Until fairly recently the area was very isolated.

The valley contains 80 or so white villages dotted around the mountains, connected by a twisting little road. Because of the altitude and dry air, the villages produce some of the finest ham in Spain. It's also famed for pure mineral water, chestnuts and fragrant honey.

The first person to write about this area in English was Gerald Brenan in his book South From Granada (Penguin Modern Classics). From 1919, Mr Brenan spent 7 years living in the village of Yegan in the Alpujarras. He had served as an officer during the first world war and wanted to spend a few years reading his collection of books.

His story is of village life, its colorful characters, their lives and love affairs, the customs and folk-lore. He writes of another age and of a very foreign place.

South from Granada was published in 1957 and became a classic of travel writing and a route map for those looking to find their dreams, the hippies.

The trickle of hippies started arriving in the Alpujarras from all over the world at the end of the 1950's and to this day Orgiva, the only market town in the area, is the centre of the hippy world - for all age groups! There is plenty of space on community land for life in teepees and yurts to flourish.

Hippy girl. Photograph by Tim IrvingHippy in Orgiva

8 comments:

  1. Hmmm. Interesting. I had no idea the center of the Hippy world was in Spain. But thinking back to the late 60's and early 70's when my hippy cousin was traveling around, North Africa was one of the destinations. So, it would make sense lots of hippies would land in Southern Spain.

    I so enjoy good travel writing that focuses on a specific place where you can get to know the local color and characters. I'll have to check out Brenan's book.

    Did you take the b&w photo?

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  2. Great post, Tim! There is something about the hippy era that always captures my interest.

    By the way, just saw a post about you on Made by Girl, and you might want to let her know it is TIM not Tom! :)

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  3. That's a terrific photo Tim! We were house hunting in Orgiva a couple of years back and No, I'm not a hippy!!

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  4. Been to Orgiva many times.
    It is the ultimate new age destination where the majority of the original, genuine UK new age travellers still reside. There are yoga centres and Osel ling the stunning Buddhist monastery high above.
    It's like picking Glastonbury up and taking it into the Sioerra Nevada mountains, adding a year round sun and a snow capped backdrop with soil so fertile you can grow all your own food- year round.
    Artists, poets and bohemians from around the world clutter the area in colour. A place to live and a place to die

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  5. Is orgiva still a commune I'd heard the authorities were cracking down

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    ReplyDelete

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